1	Disclaimer The photographs and the content of this website are the property of National Super Kids Board,and may not be copied, reproduced, or sold without consent of the National Super Kids Board. The photographs, drawing, illustrations, depictions, and narratives content of this website are being provided for informational purposes only. No warranty or guaranty is made relative to the suitability, safety, or operational characteristics of these cars for any purpose. Viewers of this material may not rely on and the National Super Kids Board makes no representation relative to the suitability, safety, or operational characteristics of these cars. Anyone building these or similar cars bear sole and exclusive responsibility for the design and construction of the vehicles, and must make sure that if they build such a vehicle that the suitability, safety and operational characteristics make such vehicles safe for its intended purpose.
2	General Information For the most part the following pictures and narrative should offer a more or less step-by-step process for building a derby car similar to the National Super Kids car. Working from patterns we still have we attempted to recreate the process as best we can. Keep in mind we are building this car for pictures ONLY. All wood parts on the REAL cars were glued and nailed together. Some new ideas for steering assemblies and steering rods requiring less machine work and welding have been developed and are included in the construction photos. Our hope is that you will be inspired to build a couple of cars for your local race and help us grow this great event. Some ideas on where to get local help. If you have a Career Education center or Vocational School in your area this would be a great place to start. Most of these facilities will have carpentry, welding and auto body programs. Other options could be a Building contractor or competent carpenter. Your local Lumberyard or or chain store may be willing to donate lumber to sponsor the cars. Your local Police, Fire, VFW, Church, Boy Scouts or Girl Scouts might be willing to help build or sponsor cars.
3	More General Info A heating contractor can supply the black iron pipe needed for the steering and brake parts. A local machine shop should be able to help with material, drilling, and possibly welding on the steering assemblies. And your local auto repair shop should be able to provide you with a paint job for your new cars. Used derby axles, wheels and brake assemblies may be found locally, on ebay or new parts can be ordered from the AASBD. You may email questions to Bob at rmanda@sssnet.com PLEASE ALWAYS mention NSK in the subject. Good Luck!
4	Index Section 1: terms & definitions Section 2: basic car construction Section 3: lumber material list Section 4: steel material list Section 5: hardware list Section 6: steel parts to make Section 7: making the bottom board Section 8: installing steel parts Section 9: detailed framing of car
5	Section 1: Term & Definitions We made up terms for some of the car parts. Here they are. Angle Block- a short 2x4 cut at 45 degrees on both ends used on the front and back fire walls. Also used on the 2x2 framing. Angle Brace- a 2x4 cut to fit inside the cockpit on both sides. This brace makes the car rigid. Formers- 2x4 material cut to fit the curve of the bottom board. They from the sides of the car. Front block- a short 2x4 cut to the curve of the bottom and attach to the front only. Firewall block- a short 2x4 cut to the curve of the bottom and attach to the front firewall only. Hood block- 2x4 material between top front formers. Nailer- a narrow strip of wood attached to the front and back firewall.
6	Section 2: Basic car construction, this is a quick look at the framing process.
7	Derby Car Construction Bottom front former is marked for cut and fit.
8	Derby Car Construction Front top former attached to firewall.
9	Derby Car Construction Front top former attached to front.
10	Derby Car Construction Front top formers installed.
11	Derby Car Construction Back top former is installed.
12	Derby Car Construction Back top former. ALL parts were glued and nailed.
13	Derby Car Construction Compound angles on formers were cut with a skill saw. A miter box that tilts will work as well.
14	Derby Car Construction Fitting of the compound angles is often necessary.
15	Derby Car Construction Rear formers installed.
16	Derby Car Construction Angle braces being installed. Make sure the bottom is sitting flat and straight before installing these braces. ( YES, THIS PICTURE IS OUT OF SHAPE )
17	Derby Car Construction The 2x2 material being installed here tilts up with the front of the car.
18	Derby Car Construction Complete car frame ready for sides.
19	Section 3: lumber list Item Quantity description use 1 ½ sheets ¾ x 4x8 material floor, front, back, and side doublers 1 ½ sheets ¼ x 4x8 lauan sides, hood, and trunk 1 2”x4”x10’ font and back firewalls 4 2”x4”x8’ see below 2- 2x4x8 Will make front top and bottom formers and gussets. 1- 2x4x8 Will make angle blocks and 2x2 framing 1- 2x4x8 Will make rear formers, hood block and other 2x4 parts This is the list not counting mistakes. You will probably need more, we did.
20	Section 4: Steel Material list Item Quantity Description Use 1 2x2in. angle iron 18in. long steering stop 4 2x2in. angle iron 2in. long brake lever and brake pulley 2 1/8”thick ½”or 5/8” angle iron 26 ¼” long steering rods 2 ½ in. black iron pipe 12in. long steering shaft 2 ½ in. black iron pipe 8in. Long steering tee handle 1 ½ in. black iron pipe 18in. Long brake lever 2 2x2in. Square tube 2in. Long steering box 2 ¾ in. Long steel bushing to fit over ½ in. black iron pipe steering assembly 2 1/8 in. thick 4x4 in. steel plate steering assembly base 2 ¼x1x5 in. flat steel steering arm 2 standard derby axles (new or used) drilled as described 1 complete standard derby brake assembly **Item number 11 & 12, derby axles and brake assembly can be ordered online at AASBD. Com or by calling 1-330-733-8723 Monday thru Friday 8:00-5:00 (est)
21	Section 5: Hardware list Item Qty Description Use 1 pair 3” door hinges front tilt 6 #10x1 ¼” countersink woodscrews steering stop 1 ¼”x3 ½” NC grade 8 bolt king pin 4 ¼”x3” NC bolts rear axle and brake lever 6 ¼”x2” carriage bolts front hinges 8 ¼”x1 ¼” carriage bolts steering assemblies 2 ¼”x1 ½” bolts mount cable pulley assembly 2 #10x1” cap screws steering rods to front axle 1 ¼”x1 ¼” NC bolt assemble cable pulley 2 ¼”x28NF MALE rod ends steering rods 2 ¼”x 28NF jam nuts steering rods 2 ¼”x 28NF couplers steering rods 4 3/8”x2” carriage bolts brake assembly
22	"4" 4 3/8 flat washers 4 3/8 lock washers 4 3/8 nuts 1 ¼”x2” fender washer king pin 11 ¼”X 1 ¼” fender washer front and rear axles, brake lever, & cable pulley 10 ¼”x20 NC nylok nuts 21 ¼”x 20 NC nuts 12 flat washers 16 lock washers 2 5/16” flat washers front carriage bolts 2 3/16” flat washers steering rods 2 nylok nuts #10 cap screws 1 ¼”x1 ¼” NC bolt brake lever to mount 2 21/2” barrel bolts car locks Misc. drywall screws to install seats and hold sides
23	Section 6: steel parts to make Steering and brake parts
24	Steering assembly parts Steering shaft 12” long with “butterfly” handle. You can use a “T” handle but close the ends to keep little fingers out. Bushing to fit over steering shaft ½ “ long. Steering box ¼ x 2”x2” square tube 2” long and 1/8 “x 4”X4” base with ¼ “ holes near corners. Steering arm ¼ or 3/8 thick by 1” wide and 5” long steel. Center hole to fit shaft and ¼ “ holes !/2” in on each end.
25	Complete steering assembly To assemble weld steering box to center of base plate. The steering box is drilled clear through to fit steering shaft. Center the steering arm inside the steering box with the bushing on it. Push the shaft through until it bottoms on the base plate. Hold the shaft down and lift the steering arm and bushing to the top inside the box. Make sure the “butterfly” or “t” handle and steering arm are parallel and weld the steering arm to the shaft on the bottom, both sides. Note: Make sure the steering shaft cannot be lifted out of the bottom hole of the steering box.
26	Steering stop This will limit the steering to about one inch left and right. This is a 2x2” angle iron 18” long. Drill a ¼” hole in the center one inch out from the vertical flange. (front) Then drill and countersink three holes in each end at 1,2, and 3 inches in for # 10 1 ¼ “ long countersunk wood screws.
27	Steering stop Also both ends of the vertical flange must be tapered to clear 2x4 framing as shown.
28	Redrill Rear axle Redrill rear axle as shown. On both ends of the rear axle measure in from the square 6 ½”, center and punch mark then drill a ¼” hole clear through.
29	Redrill front axle Redrill front axle as shown. On both ends, from the square end measure back 4” make a 5/16^th diameter counter bore ¼” deep. Then, drill a 3/16^th hole clear through for a #10 allen head cap screw. The counter bore is the bottom of the front axle.
30	Brake lever As shown, measure in from the left end ½” and drill a ¼ “ hole. This is the hinge for the brake lever. Also, from the left end measure in 7 ½” and weld a 3/8” nut as shown. NOTE: drill the threads out of this nut and smooth the bottom part for brake cable.
31	Steering rod front You are making a left and a right steering rod. Notch back as shown about 1 1/8”. Measure back 3/8” from the end and drill a 3/16” hole.
32	Steering rod back Weld a ¼ “x 28 NF coupler to back end of the steering rod as shown. You may need to “chase” the threads with a tap after welding for the ¼ “ male rod ends to turn free.
33	Brake lever mount Make this assembly from two pieces of 2x2 angle iron two inches long. Clamp together and drill as shown holes are ¼ “. Mount to brake lever with a ¼” bolt and a nylok self locking nut.
34	Brake pulley assembly Make this assembly from two pieces of 2x2 angle iron two inches long. For best fit of pulley hole clamp angles together and drill both at the same time Holes are ¼ “.
35	Section: 7 making the bottom board
36	Floor Material for the Bottom Rip sheet 30” wide. Cut sheet 84” long. Cut off the back leaving the factory end on the front.
37	Center Line Mark a line down the center length of the sheet.
38	Layout for front Layout curve for front both sides and cut off. Note: This picture is out of shape.
39	Layout for back Layout curve for back both sides and cut off. NOTE: This picture is out of shape.
40	Front Double front 14” in. Double back 12” in.
41	Double Sides and Sand all Edges Flush Double sides 3 ½” in. Sand all edges flush.
42	Section 8: Installing Steel Parts
43	Front axle kingpin hole Measure back 11” from the front and on the center line of the car drill a ¼“ hole clear through.
44	Installing the steering stop Place a ¼” bolt through the steering stop and into the king pin hole. Make sure the stop is parallel to the front of the car and fasten in place with six #10 X 1 ¼ “ Countersunk wood screws.
45	Rear axle location Location is 7 ½” from the back of the car to the back of the axle. Centered from left to right and clamp down.
46	Align rear axle This step is called triangulation, take your time and get these measurements as accurate as possible. The more accurate this step is performed the straighter the car will run. Hook your tape onto the king pin bolt and measure back to outside of the rear axle, the front top outside corner of the square seems to work well. Check the left and right ends and tap the axle forward or back until your dimensions match EXACTLY. Using the axle holes as a guide drill straight through the floor.
47	Drill holes and install rear axle Install rear axle bolts from the bottom up with a 1/4 “x 1 1/4 “ flat washer on the bottom, large flat washer on top of the axle a lock washer, regular nut and a self locking “nylock” nut.
48	Install steering rods to the front axle Use #10 by 1” allen head cap screw from the bottom up, the counter bore is the bottom of the front axle. Add a flat washer, steering rod and nylok nut. Tighten snug.
49	Saw off cap screws Saw off flush with top of nut. File off any sharp edges.
50	Installing front axle Use a ¼ “x 3 ½” NC Grade 8 bolt only. Install from the bottom up with a ¼”x2” flat fender washer on the bottom, two flat washers between the steering stop and axle and one flat washer on top of the axle. Finish with a regular nut and a nylok nut on top. Tighten to where the steering feels “stiff”.
51	Make front and rear axles parallel This is very important. Measure from the rear axle to the front axle on both sides until you have the same measurements. Use small blocks and shims between the steering stop and front axle to hold the axle in place.
52	Mark center of rear axle on bottom Square down the front and back of the axle on both sides of the car and locate the CENTER of the axle on the BOTTOM of the car. This is for later reference.
53	Mark center of front axle on bottom Square down both sides of the front axle and mark the center on the bottom on both sides, as shown.
54	Locate steering assemblies From the vertical flange of the steering stop back 26” to the front of the steering assembly base. From the outside of the car into the side of the steering assembly base 7”.
55	Mounting steering assemblies Drill ¼” holes and mount steering assemblies with ¼ x1 ¼ carriage bolts. Use a flat washer, lock washer, and a standard nuts.
56	Lock steering straight Using a block and two spring clamps lock steering as shown.
57	Adjust and install steering rods to steering assemblies. With front and rear axle parallel adjust the rod ends until a ¼” bolt will slip through the rod end and the steering arm. Tighten the jam nut to lock the rod end in position. Then install the rod end under the steering arm with a ¼ x 1 ¼ grade eight bolt and nylok nut.
58	Locate brake assembly Measure from the front of the rear axle to the front of the brake assembly 15”. Center brake assembly on the center line and mark the holes.Note: the cable pulley faces the front of the car.
59	Locate and drill center hole for brake plunger and mount brake assembly Drill a 2” hole at this location Install brake assembly with four 3/8 x 2” carriage bolts installed from the bottom up with flat washers, lock washers, and standard nuts.
60	Brake lever mount block From 2x4 material make a block 5” long by 2 ½” wide. Cut a ½” x ½” dado in the center for the brake cable to pass through.
61	Brake lever stop block From 2x4 material make a piece 3 ½” long by 2 ½” wide. Mount with two #6 2” drywall screws from the bottom up.
62	Install brake lever assembly, cable pulley and stop block Install brake lever block tight against brake assembly. Drill and mount brake lever through floor with ¼”x 3” bolts, with ¼ “ x 1 1/4 flat washer on bottom standard flat washer on top and a nylok nut. Mount cable pulley 3 ½” in front of brake lever, as shown. Mount with ¼”x 1 ½” bolts ¼”x1 1/4 “ flat washer on bottom a standard flat washer and a nylok nut on top. Mount brake lever stop block at 7” as shown and fasten with two 2” #6 drywall screws from the bottom up.
63	Install brake plunger and cable Install cable as shown use double cable locks on both ends and tape cut cable ends for safety.
64	layout Cockpit The cockpit is laid out off of the steering assembly locations. From the front of the steering base measure forward 2”and 3 ½ “ as shown. This is the front firewall location. From the 2” line measure back 24”and 25 ½ “ to locate the back firewall. Layout both sides of the car.
65	Index rear axle and remove Index or mark the axle an “X” is used here. REMOVE the axle and set it aside for now. AT THIS POINT WE MARKED AND REMOVED BOTH AXLES AND MOST OF THE STEEL PARTS TO FRAME THE CAR. LEAVE THE STEERING STOP IN PLACE.
66	Section 9: How to build the car WELCOME! This is the fun part. WARNING Many of the pictures in this section are “tweaked” out of shape because of the way they were sized to fit the presentation.
67	Making the back Top and bottom angles were cut on the table saw using the rip fence. The side angles were cut on the table saw using the miter gage.
68	Installing the Back To install turn the floor over , bottom up and cut a 26 degree angle across the the back using a skill saw. Use the top outside edge as a guide and cut through both boards. With the back flush and with the bottom centered glue and nail in place. You may need to belt sand the back or bottom sides to match.
69	Making the front Top and bottom angle were cut on the table saw using the rip fence. The side angles were cut on the table saw using the miter gage.
70	Angle the front With bottom right side up cut a 30 degree angle on the front as shown. Bottom board only!
71	Install hinges to front On the inside bottom of the front measure up 1 3/4” as shown. On the center line and with the top of the hinge pins facing in fasten hinges to front.
72	Installing Front to bottom We used two 3” door hinges with the hinge pins butted together on the centerline of the car. Hinges were fastened with two ¼”x2” carriage bolts per hinge up through the floor and one carriage bolt through each hinge in the front.
73	Install carriage bolts in hinges Use six ¼ x 2” carriage bolts with lock washers and double nuts. Use a flat washer under the two carriage bolts in the front. (Bottom picture)
74	Build and install back firewall The MAXIMUM height of the firewalls including the bottom for these cars is 15 ¾ inches. The firewall is 2x4 material. Shown is a ¾ “ plywood gusset held down from the top 2”. Glue and nail in place both sides. NOTE: THE BACK AND FRONT FIREWALLS SHOULD BE THE SAME SIZE. Build both of them at this time.
75	Install back firewall Make sure back firewall is vertical.
76	Layout former boards for back Place a 2x4 under the bottom as shown and trace the curve of the car. Cut out and fit to the back and firewall. Again you are making a left and right part. Angles are compounds. You can mark the top angles with a straight edge. The end angles are approx. 45 degrees at the back and 15 degrees at the firewall. NOTE: Install formers FLUSH with the top of the back angle, and ¼ “below the top of the firewall as shown.
77	Installing back formers We used 2x4 material for these parts. We cut the basic curve of the former onto the 2x4 with a band saw. The firewall angle is approx.15 degrees and the back angle is approx. 45 degrees. This is a cut and fit operation. Note that the former is installed flush with the top of the back and held down ¼ “ down at the firewall. We glued and nailed all these parts together. Nailers are needed on firewalls front and back as shown for hood and trunk. At this point the back should be complete.
78	Make front blocks Make front blocks from 2x4 material approx. 9” long. You will need a left and right block. Rip material 3” wide. Cut compound cuts as shown. Miter is set at 20 degrees and the tilt is set at 18 degrees for our car.
79	Install front blocks They are attached to the front only! Glue and nail in place.
80	Make fire wall blocks Use 2x4 blocks 10” long. Mark as shown, set under the bottom,draw a line, and cut out on the band saw. Make a left and a right.
81	Install front firewall blocks Front firewall blocks glued and nailed in place.
82	Install front firewall Front firewall assembly with blocks attached. The front firewall is NOT attached to the floor board. Cut out is optional.
83	Layout bottom former Layout as shown. Mark from the firewall to the front half way, then use a straight edge and draw a line from the front back. Note: The bottom board is supposed to be narrower than the formers at the front. Once the bottom former is cut you can use it as a pattern to make the top former and the left side formers. Front angle is approx. 30 degrees.
84	Cutting Formers on the Band Saw This is the quickest and most accurate way to cut formers. Sand as needed.
85	Bottom front former The bottom former is installed flush with the outside of the front and flush with outside at firewall. Note:The center of the bottom former MUST clear the bottom board by at least ¼ “ as shown for the car to open and close without interference.
86	Top front former to firewall The former end angle at the firewall is approx. 12 degrees. Hold down the thickness of the hood material and flush with the outside glue and nail in place.
87	Top former to front Installed flush with the top and outside of the front. Glue and nail in place.
88	Front top and bottom formers Bottom former installed on top of front and firewall blocks with angle block at firewall glued and nailed in place. Top former installed flush with top and outside of front and flush with outside of firewall but held down ¼ “ from top of firewall.
89	Angle brace Note: Make SURE the car bottom is flat and straight before marking and installing this brace. This angle brace serves to make the car rigid, and is the cut line where the car opens.
90	Install angle brace Install angle brace as shown. Hold down 2” from the top of the back firewall. The front angle stops at the front firewall. Glue and nail in place.
91	2x2 framing to front of car Using 2x2 inch material first mark and cut a piece to fit on top of the angle brace. Leave this 2x2 about 1/8 inch short at the rear firewall. Mark and cut the top 2x2 as shown also leave it 1/8 inch short. Note:Glue and nail this 2x2 material to each other and the front firewall ONLY.
92	Angle Brace and 2x2 Framing The dark line is where the car is cut open after the sides are installed.
93	2X2 Framing Block From a 2x4 cut 45 degree angles to make a 5” block as shown. With the 2x2 framing flush with the outside of the rear firewall, and tacked in place, “fit” this block to the framing by sanding as needed. DO NOT FORCE IT INTO PLACE. This step will assure that the sides of the car are flush after the car is cut open. Glue and nail in place.
94	Hood nailer and hood block Add hood nailer to front of front firewall flush with the top of formers approx. ¼ “ down from the top of the firewall. Also add a hood block approx. 12” forward of the firewall as shown.
95	Front framing complete The complete front assembly tilts on the hinges.
96	Fastening sides to frame This shows where to fasten sides to frame. Be careful not to fasten the front shut.
97	Install Sides and sand flush Material for sides is ¼” thick underlayment (lauan). Make SURE the sides are installed flush with the bottom. The frame work is all glued and the sides installed with a pin gun. The screws are temporary and removed after the glue has dried. Hood and trunk lid are also ¼” thick underlayment
98	Cut the car open step one Make the vertical cut between the back firewall and 2x2 framing.
99	Cut the car open step two Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill from the inside out, top and bottom between the angle brace and 2x2 framing. This is to locate these points on the outside.
100	Layout to cut open step three Hold a straight edge exactly over the 1/8” holes and mark a line from the vertical cut to the bottom of the car.
101	Cut open step four Using a skill saw set to ¼” deep cut the line.
102	Cut car open step five Check to see that the car opens and sand all cut edges.
103	Layout front axle cutout Working from the center axle mark on the bottom, square up the side TWO inches. Measure forward and back ONE inch as shown. Drill two inch holes on these marks.
104	Finish front axle cutout Layout as shown and cutout. Note: A sharp utility knife worked well for us, be careful! Sand all edges smooth.
105	Layout for rear axle Working from your center mark on the bottom square up TWO inches and mark as shown. Drill a ONE inch hole.
106	Fit rear axle You will need to file or cut the sides to install the axle.
107	Fit trunk lid Cut your material to rough size and “FIT” the top edge to the firewall,a block plane works well for this.
108	Install trunk lid and hood At this point we trace along the sides and back underneath and remove excess material on the band saw. Glue and nail in place. Sand all edges flush. Note: We fixed and filled mistakes with Bondo. Install hood the same way.
109	Seat Bottom For seat material we used ¾” partical board. Seat bottom is 12” wide and 16” long we used a router to round the corners over. Blocks were installed in front of the back firewall on the floor, back left corner as shown. ¾” blocks were installed UNDER the right side to raise the seat bottom and the back right corner was cut to clear the brake lever mount block. Seat is installed with one # 6 countersunk screw.
110	Seat Back Seat back is 12” wide and 14” long, round over corners and install flush with the top of the back firewall with one # 6 countersunk screw.
111	Install barrel bolt latch Drill pilot holes for screws and install as shown. Reinstall all steering and brake parts.
112	Finished car Congratulations! At this point you should be the proud owner of a complete car ready for paint. If you have suggestions or comments on how to improve the construction process please share them with us. Email Bob at rmanda@sssnet.com PLEASE ALWAYS mention NSK in the subject.